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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.